Thu 13 Dec 2007
Whisk(e)y from House Spirits
Posted by Phil under Uncategorized
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The main thing I look for in a craft product is that it represents the place that it was made. While “terroir” is important, it’s more a stylistic thing. Before the age of cheap transportation and boutique marketing, most products had a greater connection to where they were made. Scotch is from Scotland because the cool weather allows you to grow barley and peat is readily available. Brandy is from France because the climate is suited for fruit. Rum is from the Caribbean because that’s where the sugarcane grows. Bourbon is from Kentucky because it added value to expensive-to-transport corn and the hollers are great microclimates for aging.
At the GADF, there were plenty of products that didn’t make any sense. Why make rum on a small, expensive island in New England, rather than on the tropical islands that actually produce the molasses? Why make whiskey in the US with malt from Scotland? On the other hand, I had several products that express exactly the place they are from: grappa from Ransom winery, Clear Creek’s Douglas Fir eau-de-vie, Pritchard’s rum.
With Fall/Winter upon us now, the cool and damp Pacific Northwest weather makes me what whiskey. The smoky, fruity flavors reflect the burning leaves and apples, and I just love that. However, there’s only one whiskey you can buy that’s made in the Northwest, and that’s the aforementioned one made with Scottish barley. Soon, but not soon enough, there will be another option.
House Spirits, known for their amazing Aviation Gin and Krogstand Aquavit, is currently working on a Northwest-style whiskey. The only way to get it “now” is through their barrel program. Of course, “now” means made now, which means it won’t be ready until you say it’s ready in a few years, and it only comes by the 15 gallons. The price is appropriately high, and matches the top whiskey prices. But, I believe, quite worth it, since you get to match it to your particular preferences and get your own custom bottling.
As part of their marketing, they’re doing tastings comparing their own 8 year aged malt whisk(e)y (their actual spelling) with several well-known brands. In my tasting, it was Crown Royal (to show the lightness of Canadian blended), Woodford Reserve, The Balvenie DoubleWood, and Redbreast Irish whiskey. The 8 year is an amazing product, as good as the the top quality Irish and Scotch whiskies with an intense, unique flavor that was described as apple/pear. When talking with Lee Medoff, you get that unique feeling that this is a man who knows what he’s doing, and knows what he wants to go. It’s the same feeling I get from reading Paul Bertolli, that food is not just a thing, or a business. He’s trying to do with whiskey the same thing the brewers did a two decades ago with beer. If this is to be the style of Northwest whiskey, I am all for it.
This vintage was just the result of early experimentation, so don’t expect to see it available. But, eventually its descendants will appear on the shelves, and we all will be able have our very own. I look forward to this, it can’t come soon enough.
Also, House Spirits will be holding their 2nd Annual Booze Bazaar this Saturday, December 15th, 2007 from 12:00pm - 5:00pm, 2025 SE 7th Street.
