Lamb Martini

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There just aren’t enough Harry Potter-themed drinks, particularly when you have friends over to pay Harry Potter Uno. Butterscotch-flavored beer? I think not. I’m a big fan of the Corpse Reviver #2, so I thought this would be a good basis. After some experimentation, I looked up the less-popular Corpse Reviver #1, which is actually quite close to the experiments.

The Dementor #1

• 1oz Clear Creek Apple Brandy
• 1oz Sub Rosa Tarragon vodka
• 1oz Lillet Blanc
• 1oz lemon juice
• 1/2 oz St. Germain elderflower liqueur
• 1/2 oz simple syrup (optional, to taste)

(the proportions are a bit off, so I split this with someone else)

The fruity/earthy/mustiness of the apple brandy, the herbacious/anise of the Sub Rosa, and the wonderful complex floral St. Germain blend to make something just as transcendent as the Corpse Reviver #2. The earth and flowers, so associated with death. But yummy! I typically don’t like floral flavors, but the St. Germain is truly amazing, and I’m looking forward to trying some recipes substituting it for Cointreau. The Clear Creek brandy has a stronger component from the wood than most brandies, and puts it much closer to a peated Scotch than a Cognac or Calvados.

After drinking about half of it, I added a dash of Caol Ila, a smoky Islay Scotch. The smokiness really kicked up the drink, but overwhelmed some of the subtle complexity of it. Much more demented. I’m definitely going to need to keep Islay Scotch in mind for adding to the classic sours.

While watching Jane Austen’s Persuasion on PBS, I cracked on an bottle of fino sherry. The major flavor was walnut, and I thought it might be a good substitute for the Lillet. This made the complexity of the drink more manageable, and gave a nice nutty undertone.

For July’s Mixology Mondays, Jeffery Morgenthaler presented a classic cocktail variation deemed The Bridgeport Bramble. Considering it’s named for the city I currently call home, I had to try it. Never content to leave good enough great alone, I had make my own changes.

The original recipe called for 1.5 oz of Aviation Gin, 3/4 oz lemon, 1/2 oz syrup, and 3/4 oz blackberry liqueur. I didn’t have 3 of the 4 ingredients, so…

When I made this, I hadn’t yet tried Aviation. I did want to use gin style other than London Dry, so I used some Plymouth. Plymouth is much weaker than most gins, so I upped the proportion. I had limes. No blackberry liqueur, but I did make some tequila marionberries. These were so sweet that I reduced the amount of syrup.

After mixing, the drink was so fruity that it had the perception of begin very sweet and “unsophisticated”. I’d recently acquired some of the aged Fee’s bitters, and this seemed the perfect dash of sophistication the drink needed. Had I used genever-style Aviation, this spice would have been provided as part of the gin component, so I inadvertently mixed it closer to the original recipe. As for the texture, the berry coloring and juice made the drink seem to thick, and a bit of soda water seemed in order. This made it perfect for me: fruit, spicy, cold, and effervescent.

Recipe:

Bridgetown Bramble (var) Fizz
2 oz Plymouth gin (1.5 oz Aviation)
1 oz lime juice (.75 oz lemon)
2 tsp simple syrup
2 tequila marionberries + bit of liquor
1 dash Fee’s Whiskey Barrel Aged Old Fashioned Bitters

Muddle marionberries. Shake all and strain over ice into an old-fashioned glass. Add a bit of soda water on top.

Tequila Marionberries:

One name, many variations. As it is with many cocktails, the El Presidente has two main families of variations, quite a bit of variation within those families. One family is French-Italian, and basically a Manhattan with rum. The other family is a Sour, and basically a Daquiri plus. But the theme running throughout is orange.

I’ll start with the only recipe that has a definite attribution:

Esquire Drinks (Wondrich, 2002)
1.5 oz light rum
0.5 oz orange curacao
0.75 oz dry vermouth
dash grenadine

Wondrich attributes this to Eddie Woelke of Havana’s Jockey Club, invented in honor of Gerardo Machado, cattle rustler who became the 5th president of Cuba 1925, and lost power in 1933. This recipe is attributed to bartender George Stadelman at Club El Chico in New York (attribution is from 1949 Equire Handbook for Hosts). No specific date is given, but it it has to have been sometime during Machado’s reign. It’s also possible that this comes from a more generic Presidente recipe, and that only this specific variation was named to honor Machado.

The 1930 Savoy Cocktail Book doesn’t list a Presidente, but it does list this:

President Cocktial
1 glass Bacardi rum (2 oz)
Juice 1/4 Orange
2 dashes grenadine

No vermouth, but the orange juice would act both to give an orange flavor (although a juice rather than oil flavor) and as a moderating agent.

Angostura Recipes, 1934

El Presidente Cocktail
1.5 oz light rum
0.75 oz curacao
0.75 oz sweet vermouth
Stirred, with maraschino cherry (only one stirred or with m.c.)

Slightly different proportions, sweet vs. dry vermouth, and no grenadine. However, the maraschino cherry and the bit of liquid with it would lend some red fruit flavor. The sweetness in the vermouth would also offset the loss of the sweetness from the grenadine. (Why Angostura chose a toreador as the illustration for the cocktail, I’ll never know.)

While all of the others have rum, this one contains Kentucky whisky, which we know of know as bourbon. Today, Brown Forman is the distributor for Appleton Estates rum, but in 1934 they had only “domestic” spirits. So this is basically a wet Manhattan with curacao instead of bitters (which are similar flavors).

How to Make Old Kentucky Famed Drinks, from Brown Forman Distillery, 1934
Presidente
1.5 oz whisky
1 oz dry vermouth
2 dashes orange curacao

In the Joy of Mixology, Regan gives a recipe adapted from 1949 Old Mr. Boston:

2 oz light rum
0.5 oz lime juice
0.5 oz pineapple juice
dash grenadine

Quite different: rum-based, but with enough lime to categorize it as a Sour, and more precisely as a Daquiri variation. The pineapple acts as the moderator, and the grenadine of the original. None of the other recipes have lime, even though it’s commonly paired with rum. How could the recipes be so different? Looking in my copy of Mr Boston 1963, we get the answers:

El Presidente Cocktail No. 1
Juice of 1 lime
1 tsp pineapple juice
1 tsp grenadine
1.5 oz rum

El Presidente Cocktail No. 2
0.75 oz dry vermouth
1.5 oz rum
dash bitters

No. 1 is the base for the one in JoM, although with updated proportions, and No.2 the more traditional recipe. No. 2 is the only one of the lot to have betters instead of curacao, but one guess that orange bitters were used in practice.

So, naturally, since there are so many recipes, I’ll formulate my own. There are a few things I wanted to showcase here: Stirrings Blood Orange Bitters, homemade maraschino cherries, and homemade grenadine. I just got the Stirrings last week, from Kegworks via eBay. The cherry season in Oregon just ended, but I’ve been making wonderful maraschinos with Maraska for the past few weeks. The grenadine I made last weekend (post coming soon). So the recipe:

El Presidente (var. 1)
1.5 oz Myer’s light rum
0.5 oz Stirrings Blood Orange bitters
0.75 oz dry vermouth
1 tsp grenadine
homemade marschino cherry

Stirrings Blood Orange bitters are much less bitter than a traditional orange bitter, and they contain sugar (umm…), so more than a dash is required. I perceive them as even less bitter than Campari. Since there’s no acidifying agent, it’s not possible to get the taste of the grenadine to appear without making the drink sweet (particularly with the Stirrings). The rum isn’t as strong a flavor as gin or rye in similar drinks, so it doesn’t really give the drink the backbone that it should. I’d really like this as a not-too-sweet cordial, particularly with the cherry treat at the end.

Date: August 2, 2007

Ingredients: Boodles gin, Lillet Blanc, Monopolowa vodka

Notes: Aha! A martini I like! The Lillet and vodka moderate the gin, but I’d like it better less dry with more Lillet, to bring the citrus/spice flavors up to par with the juniper. With the proportions in VSFC, I couldn’t really pick them out against the gin.

With the recent cinematic version of Casino Royale, many more people have heard about this one. Haigh says that it was created by Ian Fleming’s favorite bartender. If you’ve only seen the movie (I’m reading the book now), the recipe doesn’t really make any sense– why not just order a drink, instead of making one up on the spot. I finally saw an explanation in a blog post comment: in the book, it’s a British spy against a French villain working for the Soviets, so gin + Lillet + vodka makes a great metaphorical cocktail. I imagine that Fleming may have made such a request of the bartender, and the Vesper was what he came up with.

Other Vesper links:

• The Art of Drink

Lillet Blanc is amazing. I don’t like vermouth very much, so Lillet is a great substitute moderating agent. Here I tried it in a Manhattan with some Wiser’s Special Reserve Canadian whisky I picked up when touring Vancouver Island, and a homemade maraschino cherry. Fantastic.

I first heard of this drink soon after I learned there are, in fact, cocktails that are not served from plastic tubs stored in the refrigerator. Ted Haigh was pimping promoting VSFC in an NPR story. He described how, long before being able to legally consume one, he read about a glorious cocktail named the Corpse Reviver #2 in a recipe book. He described what a wondrous taste it had. And boy does it.

Of the five ingredients, two are relatively uncommon: Lillet Blanc and pastis. Lillet is commonly used in place of vermouth as a moderating agent in recipes, and I’m not that big a fan of vermouth, so paying $18 for a bottle of something I thought I might want to immediately pitch was a bit of a turn off. The only other common cocktail (there are a few others) that uses it is the “James Bond” Vesper Martini. In the US, pastis (legally) means Pernod, which not everyone has around, particularly since it’s expensive the buy a 750mL bottle of something you use by the dash.

My apprehension about the Lillet was entirely misguided. It has a fantastic flavor, with a fresh and light taste of citrus and spice. I could drink this on it’s own, no problem. Very much worth it.

Getting the flavors right is a bit tricky– get them right and it’s the best thing you’ve ever had, get them wrong and it’s just another good cocktail. The recipe in VSFC is one part each gin (Broker’s, for this one) , Lillet, Cointreau, and lemon juice, and a drop (a drop, not a dash!) of pastis (Pernod here). The interplay of the juniper, citrus, spice, orange, lemon, and licorice is amazing. In this one, the Cointreau seemed to pop out the most, but the Lillet and Pernod seemed to pop most in the last couple.

The designated proportions make a drink that’s not tart enough for my palate, since the Lillet and Cointreau both add sweetness, and the acidity of the lemon may vary quite a bit. A “good” gin might be bad for this, since the smooth/mellow flavor will probably get lost. I think a strong juniper flavored gin would be best, like Gordon’s. A drop of Pernod seems to get lost, so I would put up to a 1/4 tsp get get it to come out (this, too, is tricky, since you just want the licorice flavor to rise, but not to dominate, so adding a bit at a time). A bit more lemon would give me a good tart flavor, but I may use citric acid powder to avoid adding too much lemon juice flavor and unbalance the other elements.

And finally the garnish: Oregon-grown Bing cherry soaked Maraska maraschino liqueur. Great over ice cream, too.

A few other posts about the CR#2:

• Gumbo Pages
• Married… with dinner
• cocktailnerd
• Sloshed!
• Pegu Blog

I finally scanned and processed my 1933 Angostura Recipes booklet. I three versions, including HTML+JPGs, Word, and PDF. I’m planning to do some posts on the recipes soon (and the many racial stereotypical illustrations, as above), but for now I’ll just point out a few highlights:

• September Morn Cocktail (pg 10)
• Fish House Punch (pg 28)
• Old Virginia Mint Julep (pg 24)
• Planter’s Punch (pg 30)
• Doctor Cocktail (pg 14)

Ingredients: Barsol Acholado pisco, fresh lemon juice, simple syrup, fresh-out-of-the-chicken egg white, Angostura

I’d tried making one of these before, but it just didn’t come out right. The consistency was a bit too thick for my taste. After talking with a friend who spoke of the wonders of Pisco in Chile, and the recent article in Imbibe on it, I thought I should try it again. This one was much better, and will definitely be added to my usual repertoire.

Barsol Acholado “blue label” was the only pisco my local liquor store had, and I was amazed that had that one. Acholado means blended, but in the sense that it’s a blend of various types of pisco, rather than the ATF meaning of diluted with neutral spirits. I also have a bottle of Edgefield Longshot unaged grape brandy that I’ll have to try the drink with.

I’d read that the secret is to really shake it. Shake it, shake it, shake it like a Polaroid picture. Two minutes of vigorous thrashing in the Boston shaker gave the drink an excellent texture, not to mention sore rotator cuffs the next day.

The Imbibe article mentions that the lemons used in Peru and Chile have a flavor closer to key lime than lemon. This probably explains why most recipes call for lemon and some call for lime. I’m definitely going to try this with a touch of shelf-stable key lime juice now, and then some fresh when they’re in season.

My bitters dashing skills aren’t great, so I ended up getting it not just all over the meringue, but also all over the Pink Squirrel recipe in The Joy of Mixology.

The egg used (laid by Lespie the Araucana, along with my first tomatoes of the season:

My farmers market had non-early tomatoes for the first time this week, so it’s BLT time. Along with some Asian cukes in yuzu vinegar and a Richmond Gimlet, this has to be the perfect summer meal.