Lamb Martini

When I first heard from Mike Sherwood of Sub Rosa Spirits about his new offerings, I didn’t know what to expect. While I have a tarragon plant and cook with it from time to time, I’d never actually tasted it alone, and just assumed it fell into the same flavor category as thyme and parsley. I had no idea what to expect from the saffron.

Taking my first sip of the Tarragon, I was expecting “Italian seasoning”, but was pleasantly surprised by a nice anise flavor. I immediately ran outside to try some leaves of the tarragon plant, which had the same flavors. I love cocktails with pastis, so the tarragon flavor was something that really appeals to me.

However, I didn’t know why one would need an entire bottle of tarragon vodka when a drop or two of Pernod could do the same. Ah, but it really doesn’t. Diluting Pernod in vodka to about the same strength as the Tarragon, there’s an incredible difference. The Pernod is a strong but simple flavor that I perceive as sweet because it’s very similar to a candy licorice flavor. Next to this, the Tarragon tastes more savory and closer to the flavor style to quality gins. Definitely a “sophisticated” flavor, and one that will serve as a useful ingredient as culinary cocktails gain greater mindshare.

The Sub Rosa website has a few recipes up, but I’ve mostly been substituting into classic recipes. The strength of the flavor is such that I substituted at about 1 to 1.5 for gin in cocktails, but can substitute it directly for vodka without overpowering the drink. There’s a new recipe up from Jamie Boudreau of Vessel called the Esdragon, with passion fruit syrup, grapefruit juice, and the great Fee’s grapefruit bitters. I’ll have to do this, since I have yet to find a good use for my grapefruit bitters.

The Saffron is a more difficult flavor for me to think about. The flavor is like curry, and the Bloody Mary is the only cocktail that really calls for this type of flavor, and has spawned Sub Rosa variations in the Bharat Mary and Mumbai Mary. The other few recipes include Asian fruits, like mango, and interestingly draw from the Indian culinary palette. I have some heirloom Yellow Pear tomatoes on kitchen table, and I think this these are begging to be paired with the Saffron vodka.

Before I sat down to write this, I intended to make a martini with Aviation, the Tarragon, and Lillet, but I grabbed the wrong bottle and made it with the Saffron. The Aviation is already strong and spice-flavored, but the Saffron actually goes nicely with it. The curry flavor isn’t immediately perceptible, but fits in well with the Aviation and actually moderates the strong spice flavors a bit.

Overall, both of these are really nicely made and are going to be fun with which to continue experimentation. The first batches are currently going out, so it may be a bit hard to find. Distribution is currently only to Washington, Oregon, and NoCal. As for bars, the only two I know right now are Meriwether’s in Portland and Vessel in Seattle.

I also think their labels are gorgeous, so here they are: